Thursday, March 22, 2018

Fatty Alcohols and Polymers are complete bullshit.

My hair been saying for years that the concept of a "fatty" alcohol is a lie. To my hair, alcohol is alcohol. Guess what, glycerin is an alcohol too. Because it's almost impossible to avoid alcohol, "fatty" or otherwise, in hair products, the first five ingredients listed on any product must be natural. i.e. Water or aloe then a mix of four oils or butters.
Additionally, I will never use a product that contains a polymer. i.e. Polyquaterniums, hydroxyethylcellulose, etc. Polymers are just plastics. Yes, they make my hair nice and shiny, but like any plastic. it seals to keep out moisture. Without naming names, pretty much every commercial hair gel is loaded with polymers. If you've ever been baffled by how gel makes your hair so shiny and defined...yet dry at the same time...plastic.
I'm an avid label reader and very few products meet my criteria...this is speaking as a former product junkie. As little as three years ago, there was a plethora of high quality products. Now everything is just a little tub of alcohol, plastic and/or wax. Unfortunately, once everyone and their momma began to peddle natural hair products, formulations began to change for the worse and a lot of trash flooded the market.
Personally, I only purchase Camille Rose Algae Renew (and a back-up that I'm testing) as conditioner, a natural soap (without sodium palmitate) as a shampoo and my olive oil/shea butter blend as a leave-in. For a styler, I only use a botanical gel...flaxseed...that I make myself. My hair holds moisture and shines pretty well. I do want to learn to make my own conditioner just in case the brand mentioned gets some fancy ideas about changing the formulation.

Friday, April 28, 2017

product review: Store-Bought Oils for Natural Hair

Monoi Tiare Tahiti Vanilla Coconut Oil

Ingredients:  Coconut (Cocos nucifera) oil, Tiare (Gardenia Tahitensis) flower, parfum, Vanilla tahitensis Oil, Tocopherol (Vitamin E).

Results:  This oil blend works to seal moisture in skin and hair; plus, I love the strong scent of vanilla.  It works well for me on its own and, sometimes, I cut this oil with castor oil to make it last longer and to create a favorable protein/humectant balance.

Extra:  Monoi Tiare Tahiti Coconut Oil Pitate | The pitate (jasmine) scent reminds me of strongly scented soaps in my grannie's powder room.


Phytospecific Baobab Oil Botanical Blend Oil

Ingredients:  Corn Germ Oil, Castor Seed Oil, Sunflower Seed Oil (Tournesol), Squalane (Derive D'Huile D'Olive), Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil (Huile De Baobab), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) (Karite), Pongamia Glabra Seed Oil (Karanja), Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Lipids (Soja) Bixa Orellana Seed Extract (Huile De Roucou), Fragrance/Parfum, Tocopherol, Citric Acid

Results:  This oil blend is a bit pricey; so, I don't purchase it often.  When I do use it, it works well to seal moisture into my skin and hair.  I love the scent.  It reminds me of the old SheaMoisture Yucca & Baobab scent.  This blend is not as thick as castor oil, but it's a heavier weight than most oils I've used.  This oil blend leaves a nice sheen on my hair when used as a sealant and I've also used it as an overnight treatment.

Phytoplage After Sun Sublime Hair & Body Oil

Ingredients:  Zea Mays (Corn) Germ Oil, Coco-Caprylate, Zea Mays (Corn) Oil, Squalane, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Fragrance/Parfum, Perilla Ocymoides Seed Oil, Egg Yolk Extract (Ovum Oil), Mauritia Flexuosa Fruit Oil, Calodendrum Capense Nut Oil, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Bixa Orellana Seed Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tocopherol, Botanical & Natural Origin

Results:  This oil blend is essentially overpriced corn oil.  I only purchased one bottle and I don't remember anything spectacular about it.  It's mid-weight.  The scent and performance were not remarkable.


Amazing Herbs Black Seed & Pumpkin Seed Oil

Ingredients: Fair Trade Certified™ Organic Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Organic Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Organic Rosa Canina (Rose Hip) Seed Oil, Organic Zea Mays (Corn) Starch, Organic Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Organic Fragrance, Rose Clay, Tocopherol (Vitamin E).

Results:  Once upon a time, I tried pumpkin seed oil to thicken my hair; however, I noticed that one of my three grey hairs had developed a brown root. My hair is naturally brown and about six months later, I saw a strand of hair about seven inches long with three inches brown starting at the root.  Seemed pretty amazing to me.
Black seed oil has a reputation for preventing premature grey, so the combination of black seed and pumpkin seed oils seemed like it might work to maintain my natural color and turn those other strands brown again.  Full disclosure, most of my hair is fine.  The strand that did turn brown with pure pumpkin seed oil was fine, but the resistant strands are thicker in texture.  I used this oil blend with heat as part of a deep treatment when conditioning my hair. This blend does not smell good, at all.  Nor did I see any of my other grey hairs develop a brown root.  If I try grey reversal again, it will be with pure pumpkin seed oil and overnight oil treatments as I did before.

Sunday, March 27, 2016

product review: camille rose naturals

MOROCCAN PEAR CONDITIONING CUSTARD
Gourmet Ingredients: Distilled Water, Opuntia ficus indica (moroccan pear oil), prunus avium(cherry kernal oil), uritca oil (nettle), cocos nucifera (coconut oil), aloe barbedensis leaf juice (aloe vera juice), simmondsia chinensis (jojoba seed oil), glycerin, cetearyl alcohol, rosa canina (rosehip fruit oil), BTMS, prunus amygdalus dulcis ( sweet almond) oil, theobroma caocas (cocoa) seed butter, Phenoyethanol (optiphen) citric acid, fragrance and LOVE!

Results:  First and foremost, I love that the top seven ingredients are natural. My preference is that the top five ingredients are natural.

Slip:  My coils are super tight and I don't think I'll ever be able to just run my fingers through my hair.   When it comes to slip, I find the slip to be adequate.  My first use of this conditioner was after a serious hair cut; so, my hair didn't have a bunch of knots impeding the conditioner's progress.    I will attempt to keep my ends clean so detangling will never be a major issue.

Scent:  The scent is artificial, but light.  It actually smells like a dessert.  Lemon tart or vanilla custard or something.

Performance:  This conditioner provides an adequate amount of moisture.  I applied it to shampooed hair, covered with plastic and sat under my bonnet dryer.  My coils were super coily and soft.  However, it was a rainy and humid day.  Eventually, the canopy of my hair lost definition...which is a sign of the hair's internal dryness.

Repurchase:  Something about the scent, texture and moisture of this conditioner didn't sit well with me.  It meets my minimum performance standards, but it's not my favorite.  I don't see myself trying this again.  Maybe when it's available in more stores and with better discounts, I will give it another chance.


JANSYN'S MOISTURE MAX CONDITIONER
Ingredients:    Distilled water, cocos nucifere(coconut milk),aloe barbadensis leaf juice, cocos nucifera (coconut) oil, theobrama cacao (cocoa) butter, butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter, simmondsia chinensia (jojaba) oil, prunus amygdalus dulcis (sweet almond) oil, olea europea (olive) oil, ricins communis(castor)seed oil, bitus vinifera (grape seed) oil, oenothera biennis (evening primrose) oil, rosa canina (rose hip) oil, althaea officinalis (marshmallow) root extract, equisetum arvense (horestail) leaf extract, urtica dioica (nettle) leaf extract, behentrimonium methosulfate (BTMS), cetearyl alcohol, mentha piperita (peppermint) oil, chloride tocopherol( vitamin E), phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol (optiphen), frangrance, citric acid and LOVE!

Results:  I rarely hear anything about this conditioner and I totally slept on it. I've only used this conditioner once, but swoon!

Before using this conditioner, my hair was in an old wash and go style. Actually it had reached wash and fro state because the clumps and definition were gone. As pretty as afros are, the tangles are gnarly, so, I was pleased that this conditioner made my hair easy to detangle. I was also pleased by the amount of moisture it imparts.

I'm accustomed to having to squirt the entire bottle of product on my hair if I expect it to do anything. So, I regret applying so much product on the first use. As it turns out, this product is concentrated. Instead of applying more product to the dry spots, I'd mist with water to disperse the product for more coverage and slip.

The scent is a very natural, herbal sort of smell unlike the usual CR cupcake scent. The ingredients are superb and this is my new forever boo unless they change the formula.


ALGAE RENEW DEEP CONDITIONING MASK
Ingredients: Deoinized water, aloe vera juice, butyrospermum parkii(shea)butter, cocos nucifera (coconut oil), behentrimonium methosulfate (BTMS) cetyl alcohol, theobroma cacao (cocoa)butter, mangifera indica(mango)seed butter, cannabis sativa(hemp) seed oil, di panthenol, mel(manuka)honey, vegetable glycerin,camellia sinensis )green tea) extract, simmondsia chinensia(jojoba) seed oil, rosa canina(rose hip) fruit oil, bitis vinifera(grape)seed oil, oenothera biennis(evening primrose) oil,phenoxyethanol and capryly glycol(optiphen), blue green algae, dimethyl sulfone (msm), biotin, tocopheryl acetate(vitamin E), mentha piperita (peppermint)oil, scent and LOVE!

Results:   My first impression is that this masque is super thick.  The container is eight ounces which, for me, equates to approximately three uses.  

Scent:  There is an added scent, but it smells very natural like chocolate mint.  It also contains cocoa butter and peppermint which could explain the natural-smelling fragrance.  I enjoy the fragrance, but it lingers; so, I have to rinse thoroughly if I don't want it to overpower my leave-in.

Slip:  The slip is adequate.  I can improve the slip by adding water, but I also add oil for additional detangling ability.

Performance:  I enjoy this mask.  It replenishes my hair's moisture level and makes my coils more defined and less frizzy.  It smells nice.  It leaves my hair soft.

Repurchase:   I will continue to purchase this mask.  I'm currently on my third container.



COCONUT WATER PENETRATING HAIR TREATMENT
INGREDIENTS: Ionized water, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut Water), Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower Seed) Oil, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Elaeis Guineensis (Palm Kernel) Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa Seed) Butter, Argania Spinosa (Argan Kernel) Oil, Heliantus Annuus (Sunflower Seed) Oil, Prunus Amygdulus Dulcis (Almond) Oil, Equisetum Arvense (Horsetail) Extract, Hydrogenated Vegetal Oil, Tiare (Gardenia Tahitensis) Flower, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Simmondsia Chinesis (Jojoba Seed) Oil, Althaea Officianalis (Marshmallow Root) Extract, Urtica Dioica (Nettle Leaf) Extract, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Scent and Love.

Results:  My first use, I left this conditioner in for 24 hours.  I didn't intend to do that, but laziness took over.  My hair was super soft when I rinsed.  Actually, my hair felt a bit mushy when I rinsed.  I do need to use it again for a proper review because it's unlikely that I'll ever leave a treatment in for that long again.




CURL LOVE MOISTURE MILK
Ingredients: Deionized Water, Behentrimonium Methosulfate and Cetearyl Alcohol, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Oryza Sativa (Rice Bran) Oil, Aloe Barbadenis Leaf, Ricinus Communis (Castor Seed) Oil, Ternifolia (Macademia Nut) Seed Oil, Sorbitol, Camellia (Green Tea) Sinensis Leaf, Oryza Sativa (Rice) Milk, Rosa Canina (Rose Hip) Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth 20, Slippery Elm (Ulmus Fulva) bark, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Sorbic Acid, Scent and Love.

Results:  On its own, this milk leaves my hair super soft and moisturized, but not shiny.  When using this milk on its own, my coils maintain their definition for about two days.  I prefer to use this as a leave-in under the Curl Maker.   With the curl maker, my hair maintains its definition for 4-5 days, but around day three, it starts to feel dry.  My hair is easily refreshed refreshed with water and sealed with an oil.

The scent varies from one use to the next.  Sometimes, it smells like a sweet, vanilla dessert.  Other times, it smells like vomit.  Either way, the fragrance doesn't linger; so, that's not an issue.

For adequate moisture when used on its own, I need to use a lot of the product.  My hair is medium porosity and the moisture does not last very long.

Lastly, this is not the most natural product.  I like the first four or five ingredients of my hair product to be natural...not merely naturally "derived".  I've never seen a Behentrimonium Methosulfate Tree (or Flower) ; so, it's unlikely that I will purchase this milk again.



ALOE WHIPPED BUTTER GEL
Ingredients: Aloe barbadensis(aloe vera gel), deionized water, macadamia integrifolia (macadamia) seed oil, persea(avocado) gratissima seed oil, simmondsia (jojoba) chinensis seed oil, prunus (sweet almond) dulcis oil, ricinus (castor) communis seed oil, behenetrimonium methosulfate and cetearyl alcohol(BTMS), camellia (green tea) sinensis, ulmus (slippery elm) eulva, ascorbic (vitamin C) acid, tocopherol (vitamin e), d-panthenol, phenoxyethanol/caprylyl glycol(optiphen), sorbic acid, scent and LOVE!

Results:  First, this isn't much of a gel. More like a lightweight, whipped pudding/cream. It has the scent of a vanilla dessert or butter cream frosting...something sweet like that.

I've tried it as a styler and as a refresher/moisturizer for my wash & go. As a styler, contrary to the description, it does not provide any hold whatsoever. As a refresher, it does not moisturize my hair, but it doesn't say it will.

This product does not make my hair shiny in any way I've used it. As a refresher, it actually removes my natural definition and the shine my previous product may have created. However, as the description states, this gel leaves my hair very soft both ways I've used it. I really like it for the softness and when I want to wear my hair more shrunken and afro-y.

The only successful way I've used this butter gel was as a base leave-in for Curl Maker.  I will continue to audition this butter gel because I like that the first seven ingredients are natural.  I like that the texture is lightweight.  I also enjoy the buttercream scent.


ALMOND JAI TWISTING BUTTER
Ingredients: Deionized water, behentrimonium methosulfate (BTMS)cetearyl alcohol, prunus dulcis(almond milk), prunusdulcis (almond)oil, cucurbita pepo(pumpkin)seed oil, sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil, simmondsia chinensis(jojoba) seed oil, oryza sativa (rice)bran oil, macadamia ternifolia (macadamia nut)seed oil,olea europaea (olive)fruit oil, cannabis sativa (hemp) seed oil, ulmus fulva bark extract (slippery elm), ricinus communis(castor)seed oil, aloe barbadensis (aloe) leaf juice, honey, camellia sinensis(green tea)leaf extract, phenoxyethanol/caprylyl glycol(optiphen). sorbic acid, scent and LOVE!

Results:  This butter works best for me as a 3rd layer.  First, a leave-in, then an oil to seal, then this butter. The combination leaves my hair soft, shiny, and moisturized. On the first day, my hair will be more shrunken than usual; but opens up on subsequent days.

This product smells very good, enhances functionality of other products, and a small amount truly does go a long way.  However, this is not a standalone product as described on the container. On its own, this butter dries out my hair. I must use protective layers of product to seal in moisture before applying this butter.  I will not repurchase this butter.


COCONUT WATER "STYLE SETTER"

INGREDIENTS:  Distilled Water (Aqua), Cocos Nucifera (Coconut Oil), Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil, Vaccinium Myrtillus (Bilberry) Extract, Saccharum Officinarum (Sugar Cane) Extract, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Phenoxyethanol ADN Caprylyl Glycol (Optiphen), Scent and Love!

Results:  My hair begins to dry immediately after rinsing; so, I guess it has high porosity. I haven't been too impressed with Camille Rose's creams in the moisture department. I like the Curl Maker. It leaves my hair shiny and crunchety-crunchy. I've paired it with her other creams, but they fall short unless I use almost the entire container.

I was prepared to not be impressed by this one. After rinsing the conditioner from my hair, I immediately applied small blobs of this to my soaking wet hair in five sections. I liked the texture...thick and creamy. When applying it to my hair, I was very optimistic about the moisture levels. I sealed with the CR Growth Oil and went about my day. I was tempted to try this product on its own, but I have a phobia that my hair will crumble into dust if I don't apply oil. I only used the two products and they held up very well. My coils are naturally defined; so that wasn't an issue, but without gel, my hair was shrunkety-shrunken. I don't care about that, but you might. Next time, I'll use it with the Curl Maker...that's why I bought it.

I slept with my hair out on a silk pillowcase and it was pretty dry the next day. I refreshed the dry areas with water, a little growth oil and a little style setter and it was good as new.

I don't like the artificial coconut scent. Real coconuts aren't as coconut-y as this stuff.  However, now that I know that this cream is best applied to my hair with a light hand, I'll be giving this one another chance.  TBD...



CURL MAKER
Ingredients: Dionized water, pectin, coco nucifera(coconut )oil, aloe barbadensis leaf juice, panthenol, ricinus communis (caster) seed oil, althaea officinalis (marshmallow) root extract, agava americana leaf extract, equisetum arvense (horsetail) extract, urtica dioica (nettle) leaf extract, corn starch, xanthan gum,  chondrus (seaweed) crispus, polysorbate 20, tocopheryl acetate (vitanin E), cyanocobalamin (vitamin b-12), phenoxyethanol (optiphen nd) caprylyl glycol, fragance (parfum) and LOVE!

Results:  It took a few tries to get the moisture balance right with this one. On its own, the curl maker was drying so a good leave-in was essential. I tried it with a few Camille Rose products as leave-ins.

First, the Aloe Whipped Butter Gel (which really isn't a gel). Both the curl maker and the "gel" are lightweight; so this wasn't a good combo for me. Not enough moisture.

Next, I tried it the Almond Jai twisting butter. Much better in the moisture department, but I used a lot of the butter and that stuff is expensive.

Lastly, I tried it with the Love Milk...probably my favorite combo. My hair was shiny and defined as with the Almond Jai, but the Love Milk is less expensive and in a better container.

With each combo, I applied the leave-in very heavy handedly to lock moisture into my hair, sealed with oil then applied the curl maker with praying hands. I never had flaking with either combo. I'm not sure if I would repurchase, but I'm glad I was able to finish the container.


AJANI GROWTH AND SHINE BALM
Ingredients: Cocoa wafers, rice bran oil, virgin palm kernel, babassu oil, murumuru butter, candulla, honey, castor jelly, biotin, castor oil, silky btms, ceteryl blend, natural scent and LOVE!

Results:  I'm a fan of the cocoa scent and I like what it does for my hairline when I puff my hair...makes it shiny and provides light hold. My hair is fine; so, it doesn't take much to make my edges lie down. My hair is also afro-textured; so, it takes a good product to bring out the shine. I only use this product on my hairline/edges when I'm refreshing my puff. It's a botanical replacement for Eco styler.

I try not to be heavy-handed because once I used too much all over my hair and it caused build-up. I had to shampoo the stuff out of my hair. On the bright side, this balm is full of humectants and my hair was very shiny and moisturized at the time; so, I won't deduct stars. On the bad side, I use balms and pomades when it's cold and this product is pretty firm. That wouldn't have been a big deal, but the consistency of my container was grainy; so, I had to emulsify the little nuggets with my blow dryer before I could apply it to my edges, smooth my hair down and tie on a silk scarf.


COCOA NIBS & HONEY - ULTIMATE GROWTH SERUM
Ingredients:  Virgin amla oil, virgin sesame seed oil, virgin coconut oil, golden jojoba oils, virgin olive oil, pressed macadamia oils, shebu ws, aromatic organic cocoa beans, organic honey, biotin, msm, remblica officinalis, bringaraj herbs, brahmi, btms, tea tree oil, naturally scented, and LOVE!

Results:  I love the container. It allows me to apply the oil blend exactly where I want it go. I love that the scent is very light, with a hint of cocoa. I love that the consistency is light...nothing worse than a thick oil blend that starts to run down my face in Texas heat. I love the all natural ingredients list...particularly the amla oil.  The only thing missing is a touch of castor oil.

To use: I moisten my hairline, apply this oil blend to seal and my edges are soft all day. I've been cruel to my edges using brushes and ponytailers/nylons that pull out my hair.  I'm using this oil blend for shine, sealing, deep treatments, TLC and regrowth.

My preferred use is with a deep treatment.  I apply the deep treatment, moisten with water, then apply this oil paying close attention to my ends, cover with plastic and sit under my bonnet dryer for up to an hour.  After rinsing, my hair is always soft and my coils are defined.

Sunday, March 20, 2016

product review: sheamoisture raw shea butter

Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo for Dry, Damaged Hair Ingredients:  Deionized Water, Decyl Glucosides (Sugar Beets), African Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) (Certified Organic Ingredient), Aloe Vera Leaf Juice, Argan Oil, Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5), Rosemary Extract, Sea Kelp Extract, Vitamin E, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower (and) Lonicera Japonica (Japanese Honeysuckle) Flower Extract.

Results:  When I purchased this shampoo, a couple of things were different:
1.  The name of the shampoo contained the word "organic".
2.  The second ingredient, decyl glucosides, was derived from sugar beets.

SheaMoisture has since changed the formula of this and their other shampoos.   Based on my experience with those other shampoos, I will never purchase the new formula of this one.  Now, on the off chance SheaMoisture hears our cries and brings back the original formulas that worked, my experience with this poo was only satisfactory.  It didn't moisturize my hair as much as the former Coconut & Hibiscus or Yucca & Baobab original formulas.   Even if they brought back the old formula, I would not repurchase.  I never really cared for the scent of the Raw Shea Butter line; however, it did a fair job of making my hair easier to detangle.


Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Restorative Conditioner for Dry Damaged Hair  Deionized Ingredients:  Water, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) (Certified Organic Ingredient), Argan Oil, Coconut Oil (Certified Organic Ingredient), Behentrimonium Chloride, Essential Oil Blend, Vegetable Glycerin, Emulsifying Wax, Sea Kelp Extract, Panthenol (Vitamin B-5), Avocado Oil, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower (and) Lonicera Japonica (Japanese Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil.

Results:  I was never crazy about the scent.  It smells like medicine.  However, I love the ingredients.  In the beginning, this conditioner did a great job of moisturizing and making my hair easy to detangle, but something changed.  Now, I only use this conditioner as a leave-in or to refresh my hair when the air is slightly moist.  Glycerin is a little high on the list of ingredients; so, over time I'm sure that had a negative effect on this conditioner's performance in my climate.  I will not repurchase this conditioner.


Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Deep Treatment Hair Masque  
Ingredients:  Deionized Water, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Argan Oil, Vegetable Glycerin, Emulsifying Wax, Sea Kelp Extract, Panthenol (Vitamin B-5), Essential Oil Blend, Avocado Oil, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Hyssopus Officinalis Extract, Salvia Officinalis Leaf and Equisetum Arvense Extract (Sage), Soybean Oil, Daucus Carota Sativa Seed Oil (Carrot)

Results: I'm not crazy about the medicinal scent, but I love the ingredients. I'd buy this again, but I'm not sure about permanent placement in the rotation. As a masque, my hair felt moisturized, but the masque was not superior to its sister conditioner.  It did not aid in detangling.  I actually preferred to use this masque as a styler or curl cream.  I apply it on top of a leave-in conditioner and it leaves my hair very shiny.  This is another product that performs better for me when the air is moist.  Because of that, I will not repurchase.  I need products that offer consistent performance in all climates.

SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Extra-Moisture Detangler
Ingredients:  Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) (Certified Organic Ingredient), Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil (Certified Organic Ingredient), Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Vegetable Protein, Melia Azadirachta (Neem) Seed Oil, Algae Extract, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Hyssopus Officinalis Extract, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf and Equisetum Arvense Extract, Essential Oil Blend, Citric Acid Tocopherol (Vitamin E).

Results:   The one and only time I used this product successfully, I used it as a leave-in in conjunction with the Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Moisture Retention Shampoo for Dry, Damaged Hair. No rinse-out conditioner. Basically, I used it as directed and I LOVED it. Imagine that. This detangler was very moisturizing and did a good job of effortless detangling. I sealed with the Shea Moisture Organic Raw Shea Butter Reconstructive Elixir and my hair was thoroughly moisturized with well-defined natural texture and healthy sheen.

Previous and subsequent uses resulted in soggy hair or deep-fried, dry-as-a-desert hair.

I purchased this product during the wet season and it took a few tries to get it to work for me.  The first time, I tried a roller set and my hair refused to bend to the roller's will.  It also refused to dry.  I ended up going to work with soggy hair that later turned into a straight Florida Evans fro.  I couldn't understand.  It was like I poured a bucket of glycerin on my head which had to be wrong because the ingredients didn't list glycerin at all.  Fast forward to the SheaMoisture.com launch...I happened to notice that the ingredients list must have been incorrect because now the label lists "Gylcerin" [sic] as the first ingredient.  Funny because from my hair's reaction, I assumed it loaded with glycerin all along.  None of the listed ingredients would've had such strong humectant properties.  I never finished the first bottle.  Back to Target it went.  Glycerin is the friend that smiles in your face then tries to steal your man.


SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Extra-Moisture Transitioning Milk 
Ingredients:  Deionized Water, Butyrospermum Parkii(Shea Butter)*, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil*, Sugar Startch, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat)Germ Oil, Vegetable Glycerin, Essential Oil Blend, Algae Extract, Panthenol, Hyssopus Officinalis Extract, Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf and equisetum Arvense Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil, Caprylul Glycol, Topopherol (Vitamin E) *Certified Organic Ingredient

Results:  Once I used this to do twists and it was amazing! It really defined my natural texture and left my hair soft and shiny. I also used this milk to style an old twist out into a nice afro puff with defined texture and curled ends. My hair was very moisturized with a healthy sheen.  I even loved the cake batter scent.  The only issue is that this is a wet season product and our wet season only lasts a few days.  During dry season, the glycerin in this milk prevents my hair from being great.  I also suspect that the label is incorrect because it lists glycerin as #6, but from my hair's reaction, it feels more like #2.  I will not repurchase even though the scent calls me and asks for a third chance. 

SheaMoisture Raw Shea Butter Reconstructive Finishing Elixir
Ingredients:  Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)*, Argan Oil, Vegetable Squalene, Carrot Oil, Macadamia Nut Oil, Isopropyl Myristate, Avocado Oil, Castor Oil, Sebacic Acid, Sea Kelp Extract, Essential Oil Blend, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower (and) Lonicera Japonica (Japanese Honeysuckle) Flower Extract, Tocopherol (Vitamin E)

Results:  This elixir is a very oily oil blend.  It has the same medicinal scent as most of the other products in this line.  Despite the scent, I liked it and I really tried to make it a staple, but I couldn't figure out what prevented me from loving it. 

Sometimes, it overwhelmed my strands and made my hair greasy.  It's hard to make Afro-textured hair feel greasy.  Repeated use always somehow made my hair feel dry.  It's easy to make Afro-textured hair feel dry.  I'd take long breaks from this elixir and when I resumed, I'd love it again...at first.  

When it was good to my hair, it was great.  I only needed a teensy, baby spray on each section of my hair to achieve maximum sealing effects with shine and gloss for days.  I eventually realized that when it was bad, that was because the isopropyl myristate was sucking the moisture out of my hair.  Leaving my ends dry and crunchy.  Needless to say, I won't purchase this one again.

Friday, March 18, 2016

product review: kinky-curly

KINKY-CURLY Come Clean Shampoo
Ingredients:  Purified Water, Mandarin (Orange Fruit Orange), Marigold (Flower Organic), White Willow (Salix Alba) Bark (Organic), Sea Kelp (Organic), C14 16 Olefin Sulfonate, Cocamidoprophyl Betaine (Coconut Derived), Citric Acid, Sea Salt, Phenoxyethanol, Natural Fragrance

Results: I like the Kinky-Curly system. The ingredients list is short and hasn't changed for as long as I've know about the products. Come Clean has a bad reputation for being drying, but it is a clarifying product. It doesn't contain petrochemicals or other questionable ingredients that supposedly condition hair. When I want my hair and scalp clean, I want it clean. Otherwise, I would just rinse with water and pile more conditioner on it.

I used this when my hair felt dry and my other products didn't seem to be working. It has pretty strong surfactants that remove build-up. My hair is chronically dry; so, I don't use shampoo often.

Will I repurchase this shampoo?  Not likely.  This shampoo does what it says it will do, but it isn't my favorite shampoo.  I haven't found a shampoo to call favorite.


KINKY-CURLY Knot Today Conditioner 
INGREDIENTS:  Mango (Fruit Extract Organic), Slippery Elm (Organic), Marshmallow (Althaea Officinalis) Root (Organic), Lemongrass (Cymbopogon Schoenanthus) (Organic), Cetyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Citric Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Natural Fragrance

Results:  During the course of my natural hair journey, I've realized that I love glycerin as a humectant that draws moisture into and adds slip to my hair when it's in a rinse-out conditioner (good), but I hate that it sucks moisture from my hair when it's in a leave-in conditioner (bad).

Knot Today doesn't contain glycerin, yet is moisturizing. This is key for my hair during dry winter months. Not to mention, this is a really good de-tangler. If you have tiny curls like me...particularly if you wear wash and wear styles almost exclusively...you know how important a good de-tangler is.

I've also used this as rinse-out conditioner.  It works quickly to add a burst of moisture and detangling capabilities.  Add an oil and heat from a bonnet dryer and it's also sufficient to deep condition.  This is actually my favorite way to use this conditioner.  It leaves my coils juicy and defined.

Will I repurchase?  Yes.  Absolutely.  This is one of my staples.



KINKY-CURLY Curling Custard
INGREDIENTS:  Botanical Infusion of: Water, Horsetail, Chamomila Recuita (Matricaria), Nettle, Marshmallow (Althaea Officinalis), Aloe Vera (Aloe Barbadensis) (Juice Organic), Agave Nectar (Extract), Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Pectin, Citric Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Natural Fragrance

first successful wash & go
with KCKT and KCCC
Results:  In the beginning, I wasn't crazy about Kinky-Curly products. I thought the leave-in was lackluster and the custard didn't blend well with other products. The problem is that I didn't use the Kinky-Curly products together as a system.

Now, after cleansing and detangling, I apply the Knot Today leave-in, then finger comb small blobs of this custard through small sections of hair starting in the back.

This custard performs like a styling gel, but with the all-natural ingredients. Actually, it performs better than a gel because it helps keep my hair detangled and keep my tiny curls clumped.

Plus, my hair has medium to high porosity...that means medium to high shrinkage! This product helps to alleviate a tiny bit of that shrinkage while leaving my tiny curls nice and shiny!

The hold is pretty firm, but pliable. I usually emulsify a little shea butter or an oil blend in my hands and squeeze out the crunch on day two. On day three, I wash my hair again...which is not a problem, because a little bit of this custard goes a long way.

Will I repurchase?  Yes.  Absolutely.  This is one of my staples.

KINKY-CURLY Gloss Pomade

INGREDIENTS:  Avocado (Persea Gratissima) Oil, Borage (Borago Officinalis) Seed Oil, Black Currant (Ribes Nigrum) Fruit Oil (Oil), Jojoba Oil, Pomegranate Oil, Soybean Oil, Safflower Oil, Meadowfoam Oil, Lemon (Citrus Medica Limonium) Essential Oil

Results: I like this pomade.  I use it to smooth down my hairline.  Apply a little water to the area, smooth in the pomade, brush lightly, tie with a silk scarf during the commute to work and VOILA!  The only issue is that the container is too small for the price and Kinky-Curly products never go on sale.

Will I repurchase?  Not likely.  I like it, but I don't love it.



KINKY-CURLY Spiral Spritz
INGREDIENTS:  Lavender (Water), Horsetail Extract, Nettle Extract, Sage Extract, Aloe Vera (Aloe Barbadensis) Gel, Vitamin B5, Glycerin, Citric Acid, Grapefruit Seed Extract

Results: If I wash my hair and pull it back or up, I'll apply Kinky-Curly Knot Today as a leave-in, seal with an oil, then use the Kinky-Curly Spiral Spritz for a slick, yet soft hold around my hairline.

When lightly applied to wet hair, my hair dries soft and shiny. When I use too much or apply to dry hair, I experienced flakes and dryness.

I find the spritz to be an excellent, natural alternative to other chemical-based styling gels.  I've also used the spritz as a styler for a roller-set and twists, but I prefer it for smoothing edges.  It's not the most versatile product, but I like that it's mostly natural.

Will I repurchase?  I don't think so.  This spritz is nice, but it isn't awesome.



Kinky-Curly Perfectly Polished Nourishing Hair Oil
Ingredients:  Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel Oil, Crambe Abysinica (Abyssinian) Seed Oil, Triticum Vulgare (Wheat) Germ Oil and Natural Fragrance.

Results: I roller set my hair and used this nourishing oil when sealing and fluffing. My hair was very soft and shiny. I like the oils in the blend, apricot, argan, etc.

The blend is very thick and I think the oils are top notch.  I did the math and it wouldn't be cost effective to purchase these oils separately.  Plus, I have no idea where to find Abyssinian Oil!  The only thing I don't like about this oil is the added pineapple fragrance.

Will I repurchase?  No. Fragrance is a big deal to me.

Wednesday, March 16, 2016

product review: sheamoisture tahitian noni and monoi

SheaMoisture Tahitian Noni & Monoi Smooth & Repair Conditioning Shampoo
Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Decyl Glucoside, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Stearyl Dihydroxypropyldimonium Oligosaccharides, Centrimonium Chloride, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, Disodium Coco-Glucoside Citrate, Lauryl Glucoside, Coco-Glucoside, Sorbitan Sesquicapylate, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter)*, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Trifolium Pratense (Clover) Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Tremetes Versicolor Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydolyzed Vegetable Protein, Argania Spinosa Kernal Oil, Coconut (Cocos Nucifera) Oil*, Gardenia Tahitensis Flower Extract, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Morinda Citrifolia (Noni) Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Starch, Glucose, Caprylhydroxamin Acid, Fragrance (Parfum), Rapeseed Acid, Sodium Sulfite, Xylose, Capryl Glycol, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Cocoyl Sarcosine, Urea, Decyl Alcohol, Diheptyl Succinate, Dimethiconol Cysteine Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Sodium Phytate, Citric Acid, Dextran, Butylene Glycol, Potassium Hydroxide

Results:  This shampoo was the beginning of the end of my love affair with SheaMoisture.  Prior to this shampoo, I had been able to detangle my hair with all of SheaMoisture's shampoos.  This shampoo tangled my hair to the point that I actually returned it after the first use.

sheamoisture
tahitian noni & monoi oil
smooth & repair
rinse-out conditioner
SheaMoisture Tahitian Noni & Monoi Oil Smooth & Repair Rinse-Out Conditioner
Ingredients:  Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Behentrimonium Chloride, Cocos Nucifera Oil Coconut, Certified Organic, Inulin, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil Olive, Prunus Armeniaca Extract Apricot, Gardenia Tahitensis Flower Extract, Behenyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Fragrance, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil Jojoba, Butyrospermum Parkii ButterShea, Certified Organic, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Trametes Versicolor Extract, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract Clover, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein PG Propyl Silanetriol, Cystine Bis-PG-Propyl Silanetriol, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Panthenol, Polyglyceryl-3 Stearate, Morinda Citrifolia ExtractNoni, Glyceryl Caprylate, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Stearyl Alcohol, Diheptyl Succinate, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Phytic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Dextran, Citric Acid Granular

Results:  Honestly, the performance of this product was awesome.  It left my coils silky smooth.  I wasn't crazy about the strong scent.  So perfumey.  Soooo strong.  I also wasn't crazy about the abundance of unnatural ingredients.  What became my real issue was learning that Vegetable Protein PG Propyl Silanetriol is actually a silicone and I don't use silicones.  I will not repurchase this product.

SheaMoisture Tahitian Noni & Monoi Smooth & Repair Nourishing Hair Masque
Ingredients:  Deionized Water, Butyrosperum Parkii (Shea Butter)*, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil*, Vegetable Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Cetearyl Alocohol (Coconut Oil), Castor (Ricinus Communis) Seed Oil, Sentrimonium Chloride, Oleth-10, Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B-5), Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Tiare (Gardenia Tahitensis) Flower, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil*, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Behentrimonium Chloride, Argania Spinosa Kernal Oil, Glyceryl Caprylate, Marinda Citrifolia (Noni) Extract, Glyceryl Undecylenate, Pythic Acid

Results: Good performance, but not as good as the rinse-out conditioner.  I applied a coating of masque to my hair, sprayed with water and spritzed on some of the matching oil, and finger de-tangled. Then I covered my hair and left it in overnight. After rinsing, my hair was very smooth and my coils were nicely clumped.

Unfortunately, the frizz-free effect didn't last through my styling session.   I thought about trying the masque as a styler, but the scent was so strong, I didn't think I could bear walking about smelling that all day.

SheaMoisture Tahitian Noni & Monoi Smooth & Repair High Shine Glosser
Ingredients:  Carthamus, Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil*, Tiare (Gardenia Tahitensis) Flower, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil*, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Panthenol, Morinda Citrofilia (Noni) Extract, Tocopherol (Vitamin E)

Results:  I deep conditioned my hair using the noni & monoi masque. I used this oil to aid in finger de-tangling. Worked like a charm! The scent is very tropical and exotic AND STRONG.  I was so glad when I finished the container.  Whenever I used one of the products from the Tahitian Noni & Monoi line, my bathroom would hold the scent for days.

product review: nubian heritage honey & black seed

Nubian Heritage Honey & Black Seed Heat Protect Keratin Shampoo

Ingredients:  Deionized Water, Decyl Glucoside (Sugar Beets), Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil* , Lauroyl Lactylate (Lactic Acid), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Oil*, Macadamia Ternifolia (Macadamia) Seed Oil*, Orbignya Oleifera (Babassu) Seed Oil, Keratin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Honey, Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B-5), Black Seed Oil, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Oil, Proprietary Essential Oil Blend, Vegetable Protein, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Stearic Acid, Rosemary Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower (and) Lonicera Japonica (Japanese Honeysuckle) Flower Extract

Results:  Currently, this is the only shampoo in my stash.  I am not a fan of shampoo, but co-washing doesn't work for me.  My scalp itches when not thoroughly cleansed; so, I use this shampoo for that purpose.  I try not to let it spend too much time on my strands.  It doesn't completely strip my hair, but it also doesn't provide moisture.  It is absolutely impossible to detangle with this shampoo, but, by washing my hair in sections, it is possible to avoid matting and additional tangles.   I just believe there's got to be something better out there.  My next shampoo will be creamy because this one feels clarifying.  I'm on my second bottle, but I will not repurchase this shampoo.


Nubian Heritage Honey & Black Seed Heat Protect Leave-in
Ingredients: Deionized Water, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed OiI, Butyrospermum Parkii Oil (Shea Butter), Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil (Macadamia), Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil (Babassu), Cetyl Alcohol, Honey, Sorbitol Esters, Castor Oil, Black Seed Oil, Cetrimonium Chloride, Keratin, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil, Vegetable Protein, Proprietary Essential Oil Blend

Results: Love the lightweight, very moist texture, the scent, and the shine boost it provides. This leave-in always makes my hair feels moisturized. light and fluffy. This leave-in was a staple product when I regularly roller set my hair.

I've been testing it out for my wash and wear styles, but it's not heavy enough to weigh down my hair.  Plus, the humectants dry out my hair...which is not a good look for textured hair.  I very rarely roller set my hair these days; so, I may not repurchase this leave-in.


Nubian Heritage Honey & Black Seed Heat Protect Keratin Hair & Scalp Serum 
Ingredients: Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil (Safflower), Butyrospermum Parkii Oil (Shea Butter), Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil (Macadamia), Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil (Babassu), Keratin, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil, Honey, Castor Oil, Black Seed Oilee, Vegetable Protein, Proprietary Essential Oil Blend

Results:  I believe products from a line are developed to work together and I like to use them that way.  When I roller set my hair, I dry it with indirect heat, but I still use this line for protection.  The consistency of this serum is thicker than plain oil and helps to weigh down my hair, add shine and softness.  I've also cut this serum with castor oil, which is a heavy oil, and it worked well to weigh down my wash & go.  In the beginning, I loved the fragrance, but over time, it has become too strong for my senses.  Cutting with castor oil does help to mute the scent, but I don't think I'll repurchase this serum.

Nubian Heritage  Honey & Black SeedHeat Protect Keratin Hair Spray
Ingredients: Deionized Water, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Vegetable Glycerin, Keratin, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil (Macadamia), Butyrospermum Parkii Oil (Shea), Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B-5), Black Seed Oil, Honey, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil (Babassu), Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil, Proprietary Essential Oil Blend, Vegetable Protein, Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Rosemary Extract

Results: Every item in the red line smells great, but I won't repurchase any of them.  I was never completely sure how to use this product.  It is not a good holding agent.  It's not a good sealant or moisturizer.  Sometimes, I'd spritz my roller-set hair before sitting beneath a hood dryer. Other than that, I don’t use direct heat on my hair and I like the performance of the hair butter as a sealant more. Whatever the case, I had to be careful not to use too much or I'd get the crunchies.

Nubian Heritage Heat Protect Keratin Wrap Mousse Honey & Black Seed
Ingredient: Deionized Water, Cocomidopropyl Betaine, Vegetable Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Oil (Shea Butter), Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil (Macadamia), Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil (Babassu), Honey, Keratin, Black Seed Oil, Polyquaternium-7, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil, Polyquaternium-10, Sucrose Laurate and Alcohol, Proprietary Essential Oil Blend, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid

Results: Love, love, love! This mousse makes my hair feel moisturized and look shiny all day. This was an absolute staple when I roller set my hair regularly. It does a well to hold my style without making my hair crunchy or greasy.  Now that I wear my hair in its natural state almost exclusively, I don't purchase products designed for smooth hair anymore.  That is the only reason I will not repurchase this mousse, but I do recommend it to anyone that likes mousse or lightweight stylers.